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Initially extracted from Tibetan musk deers, natural musk has been banned in perfumery since 1973. Synthetic molecules designed to replace it appeared at the end of the 19th century, so today there is a wide selection of musky notes with an olfactory palette ranging from fruity, to woody to animal facets. Musks are very persistent and relatively non-volatile base notes. They have been extensively used in detergents and fabric softeners, and are commonly referred to as white musks because they evoke the scent of soft, fluffy clean linen, and conjure up a feeling of tenderness and comfort suitable for all kinds of fragrances. With their inimitable mellowness highly appreciated by the general public, today musky notes are present in the vast majority of women's and men's perfumes.
The large blossoms of different colors combined with the green leaves of the Paeonia is a pure aesthetic delight. Some smell more than others, giving off an airy, rosy floral scent, slightly green and fruity. However, the peony is part of the so-called mute flowers, as its fragrance cannot be extracted naturally. Francis Kurkdjian created a peony accord that gives the impression of burying your nose into its serrated corollas. In China, the peony is a true emblem of feminine beauty and is considered to be the queen of flowers.
Also called the May rose - because that is the month of its flowering - the Centifolia rose Pays blooms in Grasse, in the south of France. It is the other variety used in perfumery, along with the Damascena rose. Its name, "one hundred leaves" in Latin, is explained by its numerous overlapping petals. Particularly delicate, it flowers only once a year which explains its rarity and its high cost. The roses are picked by hand, early in the morning. Too delicate to be distilled, the harvested rosa Centifolia blooms are extracted with volatile solvents to obtain an absolute. This rose absolute is used in the heart and base notes of a perfume. Its generous and complex rose floral notes stand out by their beautiful petal-like effect and honeyed facet.
In perfumery, only two varieties of rose are used for their fragrant properties: rosa damascena and rosa centifolia. The Damascena rose or Damask rose's appeal lies in its highly distinctive honeyed accents and slightly spicy scent. Originally from Persia, this very old variety is the most used in perfumery. It is now cultivated in Bulgaria, Turkey or Iran. Different perfumed products, such as rose water, rose oil and rose absolute, are obtained by using various methods of extraction, each with their distinctive olfactory characteristics. Rose oil is obtained by steam distillation. The Bulgarian rose has fruity facets with hints of pear, lychee and raspberry.
Native to China, this tree has settled in many Asian countries as well as in islands of the Indian Ocean. Its pale pink to red shell protects the delicious pulp of its fruit. In perfumes, a lychee accord reproduces the effect of the juicy and sweet fruit, complete with a rosy floral facet. This facet blends perfectly with floral bouquets, and the rose in particular, bringing cheerfulness and tangy freshness. The small red fruit is therefore very popular in fruity floral perfumes for women.
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